With my rock star crew, Paige, Jamie and Geof, before the start. (Photo by Jim Frink) |
6:00 A.M. in Silverton Colorado, and I stand amidst the
starting line crowd at the Hardrock 100 with tears in my eyes. Dammit, I’m
crying again. I forgive myself this
time though. These are tears of joy. Excitement. Trepidation. Perhaps a bit of
terror. But in a good way.
Every thought in my brain, every waking minute, even my
dreams, have been building with increasing fervor toward this one moment. Well,
this moment and the 40-some hours to follow. Hardrock is a very long moment.
With Margret and Mark before the start. |
On the start line with Darla. |
We’re off through the streets of Silverton, 140 runners on
140 different journeys. We hit the first hill after about 30 seconds and switch
to a walk. Well, that was exciting. I’m happy to walk. I figure there will be
plenty of time for running later. Preferably on the downhills.
I feel good, although I know I’m lacking the same fitness I
had back in May. Health issues killed my final training weeks and I’ve barely
run for a month. A friend and Hardrock veteran advised that I fatten up during
my taper. I drooled over thoughts of ice cream and hamburgers. I couldn’t bring
myself to tell him that I’d started my taper three weeks early and my body was
accepting food on a very limited basis. My wounded digestive system dictated
that calories come in liquid form only, and a girl can only eat so many
smoothies. Instead of the best shape of my life, I arrived at the Hardrock
starting line with the body of an anorexic swimsuit model. Minus the big tits,
of course.
And, we're off! |
My abs are still painfully tight; it feels as though I did a
thousand crunches yesterday. But for the first day in weeks, I can take a deep
breath without pain. It’s something of a miracle, and I know enough to be
extremely grateful for it. In fact, my gratitude is enough to erase any worries
about lost fitness, or how, with my limited ability to eat, I will possibly
take in enough calories to fuel me for 102.5 miles and nearly 34,000 feet of
climbing. My reassurance comes from this knowledge: Finishing Hardrock isn’t so
much about being fast as it is about being tough. If you can be a bit of a
stubborn bitch, that helps too. At least I’ve got that part covered.
I spend time running with Mark Heaphy, whom I met earlier
this summer at Pocatello 50, and with Harris, a friend of a friend, who is also
from California. I enjoy socializing with as many runners as I can. I’m aware
that this is the easy part, and eventually the race will spread out enough that
I may be running long stretches by myself.
As the sun rises and lights the surrounding peaks, I
remember to stop and take photos. I know I may be too tired to take them later,
so I indulge myself as much as possible.
Heading to the mineral Creek crossing. (Photo by Paige Dunmore) |
We cross Mineral Creek, and crowds are there to cheer us on.
I smile and wave to friends as cameras snap. We’re celebrities. Everyone’s here
to gawk at the lunatics. The insane. The heroes. I try not to trip and fall,
face first, into the water.
The water is so low this year, this crossing seems like nothing! |
I come up over the first significant ridge. We’re above
12,000 feet, above tree line, and the world is vast and filled with
possibility. Trails head off to both the left and right, but I don’t see
markers in either direction. I don’t see runners ahead, and when I turn to look
behind me, the nearest runners are several minutes back. Which way do I go?
There is a trail marker at my feet, and it is my anchor. As
long as I’m right here, I’m not lost. But I know I must go forward at some
point, and I scan the horizon in both directions, scrunching my eyes up in
search of the glinting metal. Nothing.
Hardrock trail marker. (Photo by Katie Desplinter) |
Then it occurs to me that this is Hardrock. Instead of
looking at either of the trails, I step closer to the edge of the ridge and
look over the side of the mountain where there is no trail at all. Sure enough,
below me in the distance is the next marker. I smile as I spring down towards
it. I can do this. I can find my way on this crazy course.
A runner named Larry catches up to me, and we cruise the
downhill together.
“I loved your pacer report from last year!” he confides.
I smile and thank him. It feels good to know that
Hardrockers read that post and didn’t think I was a total idiot. On the other
hand, I reason, just because he loved it doesn’t mean he doesn’t think I’m an
idiot. I don’t care though; I still appreciate the compliment.
“You said you were never going to run this race,” he teases
me. He isn’t the first to give me grief about this, and I giggle in response.
“But I knew you really wanted to run it!” he declares knowingly.
Well, yes. I think we all knew that. Even I knew it.
At the KT aid station I get a stern lecture from a volunteer
who looks to be about 16. My hydration bladder is still too full, he tells me.
I really need to drink more. There is genuine concern in his eyes, so I pretend
to take him seriously and promise to drink. He doesn’t know I’ve already sucked
down a bottle of my GU Recovery drink. When you’re on a liquid diet, hydration
isn’t a huge concern.
Departing KT aid station. (Photo by Chriss Furman) |
Mark leads down the trail. |
We head toward Grant-Swamp pass with Mark leading our small
group of runners. Blake Wood is just behind me. He and Mark have over 20
Hardrock finishes between the two of them. I like running with these guys. They’re
friendly and easy going. I also find myself hoping that their close proximity
will somehow allow me to absorb their ability to finish this thing. There must be
some kind of magic they can impart. I imagine if I can stick with them,
if I can do what they do, pace how they pace, I will certainly be able to kiss
that rock.
Reality check: I have no idea how fast these guys finish
Hardrock. Perhaps running with them will be too speedy for me. Dang. I will
have to run my own race, after all.
The trail to the summit of Grant-Swamp Pass. |
Looking back down the climb. |
Grant-Swamp is our first big pass, over 13,000 feet. I still
feel great starting up the climb. As we near the summit however, the trail gets
steeper and more precipitous. My power hike slows considerably. Under the guise
of taking pictures, I repeatedly pause to catch my breath. I remind myself to
take it easy – that I don’t want to overdo things this early in the race. I
take a sip of water and suddenly feel dizzy and nauseated.
Taking pictures is a good excuse to stop and breathe. (Photo by Ray Dileo) |
Really? This is how it’s going to be? I’m only at mile 15! I
look at the steep slope before me and the tiny, narrow, switchbacking trail I’m
following to the summit. This is not a place that I want to feel dizzy. Falling
right now would be bad.
Making the climb up with Blake. (Photo by Ray Dileo) |
I breathe deeply and accept the obvious: This is going to be
a very slow journey. I’m not disappointed though. I mean, at least I can
breathe deeply, right? This is an improvement from yesterday. I resolve to take
care of myself no matter what, and to enjoy the race as much as possible. This
may be the first time in any race that I have truly let go of any thoughts
about my finish time or place. I feel a certain freedom in my singular goal of
kissing that rock before 6:00 A.M. on Sunday.
I'm smiling because I'm at the top! (Photo by Tanner Johnson) |
At the top: triumph! A handful of spectators cheer and take
pictures. The sense of accomplishment is short lived when I peer over the other
side of the ridge to see where we’re headed.
“We’re going down that?”
I squeak, wide-eyed, to a photographer perched on a nearby rock. His
mischievous grin is not the response I’m hoping for.
Peering over the edge. It's so steep, you can't actually see the "trail." |
The slope is impossibly steep and covered in loose scree. I
can discern no trail whatsoever.
We’ll need to go one at a time for safety, and another
runner suggests letting our resident veteran, Blake, go first.
“Show us how it’s done, Blake!” he encourages.
And he does. Blake jumps up and drops into the narrow chute
like a skier picking his line on a fat powder day. He disappears over the side,
and I tentatively scoot closer to the edge to see him. He is indeed a skier,
making expert turns, steering himself through moguls of rocks and dirt.
Blake rides the scree far below. |
When he’s far enough down, the next runner goes, and I turn
to the photographer. “I’m scared,” I confess, as if somehow voicing this
thought will purge the fear from my heart.
He gives me a few words of encouragement, and when it’s my
turn, I don’t think about it. I just go. I take small, hesitant steps at first,
trying to control my speed. I have my poles out, and they’re critical in
keeping me upright. Controlling my momentum is a foolish hope, and I start
bringing waves of scree down with me. I’m still scared, but I’m also having the
time of my life, and I whoop and holler and giggle. Laughter is a good antidote
for fear. Halfway down and my rock pile is a full-on avalanche. I’m riding the
wave, steering with my feet and poles, scree surfing at its finest. This race
is awesome!
At the bottom, I pause to regroup. My legs quiver from the
effort to stay upright, residual adrenaline courses through my body, and victory
mixes with relief that I made it to the bottom in one piece.
Looking back up from the bottom. You can almost see my ski tracks! |
Looking across to the next 13,000 foot pass: Oscar's. |
Approaching the Chapman Gulch Aid Station, the runners who
made the climb up with me have now all left me behind. I take the downhills
easy, as I will do with everything at this race. Signs on the trail indicate
that I’m nearing the aid station, but the signs are curious. “Porcine
Pleasure”? What on earth could that mean? I’m feeling a little worried, until
the next sign mentions something about bacon. Ah, the bacon station. I like it.
The sign after that, “WWBD?” seems obvious: “What would bacon do?”
Approaching the Bacon Station at Chapman Gulch. |
Pretty soon, I can smell the bacon, and I’m hit with a
devastating reality: I can’t eat solid food. Damn! Bacon sounds so good right
now.
I turn painfully away from the buffet of bacon-filled foods
and sip some broth. I’m treated like a queen while volunteers wait on me hand
and foot. It’s like I have my own crew. One volunteer even gives me props for
staying upright down Grant-Swamp pass.
“You don’t have the tell-tale dirt streak up your backside,”
he explains when I ask how he knows.
My food and water restocked, I head happily toward the next
13,000 foot pass: Oscar’s. The Hardrock course can essentially be summed up
like this: A long, slow climb, followed by a long, steep descent that is so
painful, you’re relieved when you start climbing again; repeat for a hundred miles.
Knowing this makes it all much easier to accept. There’s never a point in the
race where you can say, “Whew! The hard part’s all out of the way!” Until you
kiss that rock in Silverton, that is.
Comparatively speaking, the climb up Oscar’s doesn’t seem
nearly as bad as Grant-Swamp. It is just as high, but it isn’t as steep or
exposed. I make the ascent with relatively little drama until I reach the last
thousand feet or so of climbing. Here, the distant sounds of thunder grow
closer, and the rain grows strong enough to warrant putting on my rain jacket.
I enjoy the climb, even as the rain picks up and soon turns to hail. Of course
it’s hailing. I expect nothing less from this race.
Approaching Oscar's |
The thunder isn’t close enough to cause real concerns about
lightning though, and I continue upward with the hail stinging my bare legs. I
see runners up ahead and behind, and I am reassured. In theory, it seems crazy
to be out running high on a mountain pass in a hail storm, but I know from my
experience pacing last year that this is just part of what the San Juans offer.
The other runners seem to feel the same, and we plod on.
I’m just approaching the top of the ridge when a voice ahead
calls out.
“Is that Gretchen?”
I squint through rain-soaked eyes to see a purple jacket hopping
up and down with excitement. “Who’s that?” I yell.
“It’s Sarah!”
“Sarah!!” I can’t believe I am way out here in the Colorado
mountains, and Sarah and Morgan are at 13,000 feet in a hail storm cheering me
on.
Reaching the summit of Oscar's Pass. (Photo by Sarah Lavender Smith) |
We have a brief, but joyous exchange. Their friendly faces
come at a perfect time, as I have been running alone since the last aid
station. Ultrarunning friends are so cool.
The next several miles are a long descent toward Telluride
at mile 30. The hail has stopped, and the green slopes are thick with
wildflowers. I feel myself getting teary-eyed at the ridiculous beauty around
me. I don’t know why I’m so emotional, but I accept it as simply part of my
experience. I love this race!
The trail down from Oscar's |
Hailstones and wildflowers. |
I have a little trouble following the markers, but whenever
I worry that I’m lost, I look around for reassurance. It’s a narrow valley, and
if I simply head downhill, all paths lead to Telluride. There aren’t too many
ways to get seriously lost.
Eventually I’m on the road into town. I’ll see my crew for
the first time here, and I’m excited. I can’t believe it’s already 4:00 P.M. and
I’ve only gone 30 miles. Actually, it’s not even quite 30 miles, but
Hardrockers seem to do a lot of rounding. This race doesn’t worry about things
like a few pesky extra miles. That’s how we can call a race that is 102.5 miles
the “Hardrock 100.” Close enough.
Coming into the aid station, I am thrilled to see Geof and
Paige’s smiling faces. Although this is the first crew stop, I can already tell
that I couldn’t have hoped for better people to take care of me. I hand off my
pack, tell them I want to change my shoes, and head off to the bathroom to deal
with a small problem. Of course I’ve started my period. Why not add one more layer
to the abdominal pain I already have? At least that might explain the excessive
emotions.
Sipping miso in Telluride. (Photo by Geof Dunmore) |
Geof and Paige are great about offering me a variety of
foods while I change my shoes and socks. So far I’ve been surviving on my GU
Recovery drink, GU gels, Honey Stinger chews, Justin’s nut butters, and broth
from the aid stations. Now I eagerly scarf an avocado covered in salt. Oh
joyous real food! I also chug a strawberry Ensure, which goes down surprisingly
well. It’s a quick 500+ calories that I sorely need.
Mmmmm, Avocado! |
Goodbye, Telluride! |
Soon, I’m off for the next ridiculously long climb, this
time up Virginius Pass. This pass scared the hell out of me last year, but I am
also reassured by the fact that I am headed into familiar terrain. The next 30
miles of trail are the same ones I ran with Betsy during her race last year. I
follow the trail up into the forest feeling relaxed, the rain still softly
coming down around me, leaving the town of Telluride behind.
It’s only five miles to the top of the pass, but of course
they’re slow ones. On the final approach, the volunteers at the tiny Kroger’s
Canteen cheer me on.
“Are you Gretchen?” a girl calls down to me as I climb.
“Yes!” I feel welcome already.
We continue this yelling exchange as I slowly approach the
aid station. Did I hike the PCT? Yes. She read my blog post about it. She hiked
the AT. Cool! I am happy. I am with my people. This race rocks.
Here is one way to tell when your 100 miler is extreme: A
port-a-ledge is required for the aid station supplies and the volunteers wear climbing helmets.
At the Kanteen. |
I don’t really need anything from this aid station, but it’s
a huge mental boost having these guys up here. It’s crazy that they tuck this
tiny aid station up into this little notch at 13,000 feet. Where do they go in
a lightning storm?
Now comes the descent, and this is the part I knew would be
tricky. The markers lead us down the steep side of the pass. In stark contrast
to last year, there is no snow to ease the slide down. There aren’t piles of
scree to ride. There is just a steep, hard-packed slope covered with a thin
layer of loose dirt. Lovely.
Looking down from the top of Virginius. |
At the bottom, in the one patch of snow, is a message for
runners:
"Only 65 miles to Go! Go! Go!" |
Wait, that means I’ve only gone 35 miles? Can that be right?
It’s dark humor, to be sure. I shake my head, smile, and begin my precarious
descent with determination.
I once heard some advice, credited to Roch Horton but passed
on to me through a telephone game of runners, about negotiating technical
downhills. Incidentally, Roch is the aid station captain at Kroger’s Canteen,
and I imagine him, at this very moment, watching my progress down the mountain.
The advice? “Just make every step a good one.”
This is my mantra right now, and I try. I really do try.
It hurts, and it’s scary, but I almost make it down without
falling. Almost.
Other runners within earshot call out to ask if I’m okay. I
must have screamed or something. Oops.
Yes, I’m fine. I hear my voice crack, and I struggle to keep
from crying. I really am fine, I reassure myself. It’s just a quick scare. At
the next creek, I pause to wash gravel from the road rash on my butt. Perhaps I
should wear longer shorts for a race like this.
Looking back up the pass. |
A little kiss from Virginius, as seen two days after the fact. |
I follow the markers to the Governor’s aid station. A check
of the watch tells me I’m not going to make it in to Ouray before 9:00 P.M.
Dang! I was hoping to pick up my first pacer, Geof, before it got dark. I’m
reassured by the knowledge that the remaining miles to the Ouray aid station
follow the wide, smooth miles of the Camp Bird Road. It shouldn’t be too hard
to stay on the correct path to the aid station, right?
I make some of the miles with Honey Albrecht, and even when
we’re not running together, I am comforted by the sight of her light ahead,
bobbing gently through the night. We are tiny stars, giant fireflies, quietly
closing in on Ouray.
The lights of the town approach at last, and I hear two
runners yell close behind me. I missed the turn off from the road. Disaster
averted! I gush my thanks and turn back toward their lights. It was a critical
turn to make, and the route into the aid station is confusing. I let my two
saviors lead me all the way in.
As in most ultras, long hours of contemplation on the trail
are punctuated by staccato bursts of commotion at each aid station. Jamie greets
me on the road and we walk into the aid station together while I sputter a
string of crazy-beautiful-flowers and hail-storm and oh-my-god-grant-swamp and
almost-missed-a-turn and then Paige is handing me avocados and I sit and eat.
Ah, food. That shuts me up.
Ready to leave Ouray with Geof. I love this picture because we look so stoked, and that's exactly how we felt! |
Geof is ready to escort me the 15 miles along the Bear Creek
trail, up over 13,000 foot Engineer’s Pass, and down into Grouse Gulch. We head
off together through the quiet streets of Ouray. A deer walks calmly across the
street and disappears between two houses. It’s the biggest wildlife I’ve seen
so far. Geof would really like to see a moose. I tell him no, there are no
moose around here. They’re all farther north.
The trail out of town is as confusing as the one on the way
in. Eventually we make all the funky turns and alight on the Bear Creek trail.
We hiked this stretch together five days earlier because I knew it would be
dark this time around. It gives us both confidence, and for once I don’t worry
about getting lost.
I tell Geof how great I am feeling, that I have done nothing
but go slow from the outset, but that I feel like I could keep this pace up
forever. I am flush with confidence. Maybe I can even run a negative split.
Geof is enthusiastic. Supportive. We are so naïve. Twenty hours into the race,
and I am still, so, completely naïve.
The Engineer’s aid station comes and goes with little
remark, save that it’s difficult to leave the warm fire. Soon we are trekking
cross-country through the Alpine tundra, up toward the top of the pass. A lone
voice from far above rings out across the flower-carpeted slope.
“That’s what I’m talkin’ about!” he booms. “Git ‘er done!”
It’s nearly two o’clock in the morning, and someone is up there cheering us on.
Like a fog horn calling ships to safe harbor, his voice draws me upward into
the night. When we make the summit, we thank him. He offers us a shot of
whiskey in reply. I ask him to meet me at the finish in Silverton.
On the long downhill into Grouse I experience my first yawn.
My second. My third. I’m surprised it took this long to start. Geof teases me,
but I’m not worried about being too sleepy yet.
When we arrive at the aid station, I look around for the
truck.
“What if they’re not here?” I don’t actually think this is
the case, but the idea simply pops into my head and out my mouth.
“They’re here,” Geof says confidently.
“I know,” I agree. “But if they’re not, you’re coming with
me to Cunningham.” I want to be clear on this. I’m not leaving this aid station
alone.
Geof gives a nervous laugh, briefly contemplating the
prospect of adding another 32 miles, (and probably 14 hours) to his pacing
stint. Of course, the conversation is all hypothetical. Paige and Jamie are
right there in the aid station tent.
It’s 4:00 A.M. I’m at mile 60 and I’ve been running for 22
hours. I celebrate with half a shot of 5-hour Energy and a strawberry Ensure
chaser.
I swap out Geof for Jamie and hit the trail. We head for
Handies Peak, the high point of the course at just over 14,000 feet. I do the
math aloud and inform Jamie that I could still finish in 39 hours. After twenty
minutes, I realize my math was way wrong. Jamie was already aware of this; she
just didn’t want to discourage me.
The climb takes nearly forever, but the sun comes up and I
can see the entire world from the summit. It is the first 14er for both of us.
65 miles was a good warm-up for it. I am wide awake.
The initial descent is technical, and Jamie balks.
“You didn’t bring the trekking poles?” I ask, puzzled.
Geof had advised her at Grouse that she wouldn’t need them.
Well, yes. The section of trail he paced wasn’t exactly technical or exposed.
There’s nothing we can do about it now, so I refrain from comment and pick my
way down the trail. She’ll be fine.
A hundred yards down I look back up to see Jamie slowly
climbing down with hands and feet. She sputters to hikers climbing up about being a
failure as a pacer. I just smile. I remember being in her shoes last year while
pacing Betsy. Welcome to Hardrock, Jamie.
Down, down, down we go until I am so incredibly tired of
going down. I realize I’m tired of going up, too. It feels like just a few
minutes ago I was swaggering up Bear
Creek Trail, crowing to Geof that I could hold my slow-and-steady pace forever.
Now the 30+ remaining miles feel like an eternity.
My own exhaustion brings tears to my eyes. My skin is paper
thin and I slowly pull apart at the seams while emotions come leaking out all
over. Jamie catches up, and I don’t recognize her similar condition until she
mentions that it’s probably not a good sign that we’re both crying. I pledge
aloud to pull my shit together before we see Geof and Paige at Cunningham. I
can’t ask them to deal with my idiocy; they’ve been too good to me to suffer
that. I know that scene is many hours in the future though, so for now, I just
keep moving forward.
There is a dirt road for a few miles between the Burrows and
Sherman aid stations, probably the only flat miles of the entire course. It
takes every bit of determination I can muster to run even short parts of it.
I’m clearly not getting enough calories, but I force down GU as often as I can.
I keep checking my watch, worried now about making the 48
hour cut-off. Each mile feels slower than the last. As already evidenced, my math skills are long
gone, so I really have no guess what my finish time might be. I can only wonder
if two miles an hour is really a pace I can maintain. This is the point I’ve
reached: Two miles an hour sounds hard.
At the Sherman aid station I plop myself into the nearest
chair, not realizing that it belongs to the volunteers who are checking-in the
runners. There are tons of chairs designated for runners, but the volunteers are too nice
to say anything to me about it. Instead, they encourage me.
“You’re doing great!” One woman says.
It’s a total lie. I look like death, which is why they’re
being so nice.
“You only have 28 miles to go. That’s barely more than a
marathon!”
Her kindness and the enormity of what I still have left to
do are too much for me. I burst into tears. I’m so embarrassed that I put my
head down on my knees to hide my face. As if then they won’t know I’m crying.
They won’t see how weak I am.
Do I look like I just completely lost it? No, I am perfectly normal. Totally. |
I have no intentions of stopping. It’s not even an option. I
think that’s what makes it so hard: I know I am going to do this, know I am
going to finish, and it is brutal. Eternal.
Jamie brings my drop bag, and I focus on eating while I try
to pull my ragged self together. I even manage to smile for a picture and
engage the volunteers in some normal conversation. I want my actions to
reassure them: Don’t worry; I am not going to drop at your aid station!
We are a team! |
We both love the trail out of Sherman, and I distract myself
from the pain by gawking at all the beauty. That’s all I have left now: the
raw, most bare-bones version of myself, and this incredible landscape. When you
feel the edges of yourself melting away, a high mountain paradise is a perfect
place to be.
The trail along Pole Creek is magnificent. I have begun a
chant in my head: “Pole Creek, Maggie's, Cunningham, Silverton.” The final aid
stations. That is the countdown. Soon, soon
soonsoonsoon I will be there. Not soon enough, really, but eventually.
“Oh my God, look at the Moose!” Jamie’s declaration yanks my
eyes up from the trail. Two moose have also spotted us across the flower-filled
expanse.
“Wow!” I am thrilled. I am in love. This is the coolest race
ever! “I guess there are moose around
here,” I say in wonder, recalling my conversation with Geof. I was such an
expert on things back at mile 45. “Who knew!”
We’re running directly toward them, and they trot
off until they get too close to the runners ahead of us. Then they turn and
make their way up into the willows while we continue to the aid station.
The Pole Creek aid station crew. (Photo byJanet Reichl) |
Getting some help from the Pole Creek volunteers. (Photo by Janet Reichl) |
There are some semi-runnable miles to Maggie's, but I
struggle to make them useful. My poles are out 100% of the
time now, not just on the steep sections. I feel like I need them just to stay
upright and move forward. My Black Diamond security blanket.
Clouds move in and rain jackets go on. Sun comes out and
rain jackets come off. On again. Off. A rhythm as steady as the click-click of
my trekking poles.
Maggie’s comes and goes. A light rain keeps the jackets on.
One more aid station, one more aid station. I know the finish is still hours
away, decades probably, but I feel it coming towards me now. I am closing in.
Getting there.
We are between Stony Pass and Green Mountain when it
happens. Mile 90 seems like a good point for the climax of our story.
Mother Nature flips a switch, and the rain turns immediately
to a downpour. I am soaked before I can get my other layer on under my rain
jacket. Large, stinging hail quickly joins the rain. I’m running to stay warm
even though Jamie has fallen behind. I look back to see she has teamed up with
another runner, Adam, and his pacer. Good.
Visibility is bad, and I search through the fog and the din
of the hail storm for trail markers. Lightning flashes with a devastating crack directly
overhead. Two more times, and I finally panic. With the next crack I stop
running and scream. I have no idea what to do.
I don’t want to be alone, so I wait for Jamie to catch up by
crouching down to protect my bare legs from the hail. The fetal position makes
me feel like a child and I let myself break down sobbing, begging the storm to
move on. I know I’m being hysterical, being idiotic. But there’s no one there
to see, so I don’t care.
I think about Martin Luther. No, seriously, this is what’s
going on in my brain. Luther was a young German student in the early 1500’s
when he got caught out in a terrible lightning storm on his way to school. He
feared so greatly for his life during the storm that he begged God to spare him
and promised that if God did so, he would become a monk. He held good on his
promise, became a monk and professor of theology, eventually challenged the
authority of the pope, translated the bible into German so people could read it
for themselves, and lead the Protestant Reformation. All because of a lightning
storm.
I guess if I were going to find religion, this would be the
time, but apparently I’m no Martin Luther. God and I have an understanding, and
I know every gift he could possibly give me is already in my possession. I
stand up, and although I’m still crying, I keep running.
Jamie is with me now, along with Adam and his pacer whose
name I can’t seem to remember. Who has brain cells for such details right now? I
think of her as Adam’s wife. In my mind I call her Eve. I’ve got a religious
theme going on, I guess. The two of them are incredibly calm, and it helps.
They’re not freaking out. Everything’s fine. This is perfectly normal. And I
realize that for Hardrock, it is.
Unfortunately the lightning is still cracking overhead and
we’re supposed to be heading up to a ridge. It seems unwise, and this thought
is confirmed when we see runners heading toward us, returning from part way up
the climb because it’s too dangerous. Too near the lightning strikes. We are
well above tree line with absolutely nothing for shelter, and the wind is
demonic, raging. I’m shivering violently with nowhere to go.
Soon, eight or nine runners are milling about, freezing,
wondering what to do. One declares he is running a nearby road back to
Silverton and fuck this.
“No!” We all yell through the turbulence.
“You can’t!”
“You’re too close!”
On the verge of hypothermia and getting struck by lightning,
but god damn if we will allow one of our brethren to DNF this race.
We become penguins. We huddle together in our own Antarctic
storm sharing body heat. It’s a surreal mix of hilarious desperation. I am
aware that everything will be fine eventually, but right now, I hate this
moment.
And part of me is angry. This race thinks it has me, thinks
it’s going to get the last laugh, thinks I’m going to give up. No. No way. I
will survive this moment, and when I do I will finish this freaking race. I
will I will I WILL. You can scare me to tears and hysteria, Hardrock, but you
will not scare me into dropping!
The rain lets up a bit and the lightening finally stops. I
know I need to generate some heat, and I begin running with the others, up the
pass. Suddenly, I can run even the uphills. Apparently all I needed was the
proper motivation.
I look back for Jamie. Other runners are with her. She is not
alone. Good, because I can’t stop. I’m still shivering uncontrollably. Movement
is my salvation.
On the descent I wait for her though. It’s steep, and I know
she won’t like it. And I actually appreciate this about Hardrock: It’s not
pacer taking care of runner, it’s pacer and runner as a team. You have to take
care of each other, because that’s how it is out here. I don’t like being a
high-maintenance runner, so this sense of equal companionship makes me more
comfortable.
I insist Jamie take one of my poles for the descent. I don’t
want to. I want both of them. But I know it’s going to speed progress for both
of us, and I’m not leaving her. I remember that Betsy gave me one of her poles
to make it up Virginius last year. Runner and pacer are a team. I like being
part of a team.
As we finally, finally drop down towards Cunningham, things
warm up. I’ve stopped shivering and I feel confident that I won’t arrive too
hysterical into Geof and Paige’s arms. I’ve been formulating my game plan for
the last 30 minutes: Find my crew, get in their truck, turn the heater on high,
strip off all my wet clothes, and put on all dry ones from my gear bag. It goes
pretty much like that, and I’m glad now that I packed so much crap.
I can only imagine that Jamie is insanely relieved to be
stopping here, but to her great credit, she doesn’t show it. She is all
business helping me get prepped to head back out on the trail. I am now wearing
tights, wool top, fleece top, Gore-tex rain jacket, fleece hat, and gloves.
Jamie calls me Nanook of the North. I don’t care. I am warm. I feel safe in all
my layers.
I give Paige the inquisition about her gear before we head
out. Warm clothes? Rain jacket? Trekking poles? She probably thinks I am crazy,
but she puts up with me. Good pacer.
Geof reattaches my light to my pack and changes the
batteries while I just stand there. He is awesome.
Paige guides me through the aid station where we check in
and out at the same time. I already have everything I need and I am so ready
for these last nine miles. There will be a steep climb, followed by a steep
descent, before we get to Silverton. Well of course there will be. This is
Hardrock. It is unending. Relentless.
On the way up we pass Ken and Saunder, who are also Stony
Pass Penguin Survivors. I’m stoked to see them. We survived, and we are all
going to finish Hardrock. I feel strong, ebullient. I will run, hike, walk,
crawl, claw my way to that rock. No problem.
We get another soaking from the skies after dark, but I’m
warm and dry this time. I make a mental note not to bother bringing anything
but Gore-tex to Hardrock next time. Not that there will be a next time. No way.
But, you know. Just in case.
Up, up, up, and down, down, down. In the dark, it feels just
like every other part of the course. Paige is good company, and I realize what
a good call it was to have three pacers. Jamie ran a long ways, and I feel bad
for destroying her. It wasn’t me, I remind myself. It was the course. I feel
better knowing she is warm and dry and resting.
It’s after midnight, and I realize I’m lucky I haven’t been
falling asleep on the trail. The minor hallucinations remind me: hydration
packs in the trail, a child’s piggy bank, a pair of discarded trekking poles. I
know I’m almost there though, so I don’t worry.
I’ve actually had a lot of luck in this race. Mainly, I know
I’m lucky my stomach hasn’t given me trouble. It hurts a bit now, but it’s
nothing, really. I lost weight going in to the race, and struggled to get
enough calories during it because of my food limitations, but that all feels
inconsequential now.
Because I’m doing it. I’m finishing Hardrock. Oh God, I’m
almost there.
We’re finally on familiar trails through the Kendall
Mountain Ski Area. At the edge of town, a few stray people cheer us on. It is
1:00 in the morning, and I love them for being out here.
“We have to run it in,” I tell Paige. I remember watching
people finish last year, and I was disappointed at how many people just walked
it in. Okay, now I get it. I totally get where they were coming from.
But, still.
I am definitely going to run it in. There will be
excitement, and joy, and celebrating, even if it all comes from just Paige and
me.
We turn the corner to see the finish line, and I switch to a
jog, both poles in one hand. We hoot and holler, but it still takes forever to
get there. Geof figures out it’s us when we’re still a few blocks away, and I
hear him cheer.
When I finally reach the rock, I give it a giant hug along
with my kiss. It welcomes me home.
With all my emotional ungluing during this race, I am
surprised to find myself relatively composed at the finish. I guess Hardrock
took all my tears already, and I have nothing left but smiles.
The team, after the most incredible week. |
It is Sunday afternoon, and I’ve had a shower, nap,
breakfast, awards, friends, and everywhere, smiles, smiles, smiles, congratulations
and happiness. I sit on the edge of the soft, clean bed in my room at our
rental house in Silverton. I am warm and dry and clean with very puffy ankles. I think about something I wrote in my pacer
report from last year, something I’ve seen quoted in a few other places since
then:
“If running 100 miles
is about exploring our limits, then Hardrock is about crossing those limits and
finding out just who we are on the other side.”
The words ring truer than ever now that I’ve actually run
the race myself. How did I know?
For as much fear as I had about this race throughout the
year, it actually turned out to be even harder than I expected. It’s an
experience that’s difficult to quantify.
And I recognize that if things had gone better with my
health and training, perhaps I would have been faster, and that would have made
it so different. Possibly less epic. I usually think of myself as more of a
front-of-the-pack runner, but not here. Not at Hardrock.
The hardest part for me was simply being out there moving
forward for 43 hours. It took me nearly twice as long to finish this race as it
did to run Western States last year. It was ludicrous. Immense. And I am so
grateful for the experience. Of course, it’s easy to say now that I’m done, but
I wouldn’t have had it any other way.
I am surprised to find that I do feel changed. I am the same
girl who toed the line Friday morning, but two days and a full circle later,
standing at the exact same spot, I am a slightly altered version.
I walk across the room to the mirror and lean in for a good
look. There are definitely a few more grey hairs than there were before. I lean
back and smile. They suit me, actually.
Hardrockstar!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Brooke! :)
DeleteMy God, it brought memories...I had to cry my own while reading it! And, of course, while running it...and pacing it before that...This is Hardrock, lightening, hail and passes...Petrifying those descends from Grand Swamp and Virginius with no snow, golly! Maggies and Green mountains are just so ridiculously long and kind of sameness around, they seem to go forever...and they do! 2 miles an hour - blasting speed! Jesus, Gretchen, so happy your stomach held on! Team work, yes, runner taking care of pacer as often as otherwise, heck, yeah, that was a borderline nuts and normal! God praying and promises, promises...and in a weird way always knowing you are going to finish. This is Hardrock. Nothing else like it. You done it right.
ReplyDeleteAs a Hardrocker yourself, Olga, I totally appreciate your comment. You are right - it's boderline nuts and that is normal, and yes, it is weird but somehow I knew the whole time I would not stop going.
DeleteI think it will be a while before I can think about running this again, but this race definitely gets in your soul. I will definitely be back in Silverton in July as often as possible, either pacing & crewing, or even just volunteering and course marking, etc. It is an amazing, amazing thing to be a part of!
An amazing a beautiful account of your experience, Gretchen (you're a gifted writer as well as runner!); and just as Olga said, YES! it brought back SO vividly my emotions and memories of my first HR that I wept while reading it also (my first was in the same direction that you ran, with many similarities: the early miles' elation and new friendships, Telluride soaking wet after an exhilarating stormy descent, the exhaustion of even thinking about the last 30 miles, and even the lightning storm on Stony Pass - fearing the choice between being electrified or freezing to death!) I'm so glad that you faced (and even embraced) all the intense joy, fear, struggle, teamwork, emotional extremes, religious awakening, splendor, and sometimes terror that is Hardrock.....and persevered until you succeeded! What a feeling. Heartfelt congratulations to you!
ReplyDeleteP.S. My bet is that you'll be back... :)
Thank you, Tina!! You should know that I was looking at your splits from 2010 as an estimate for my crew. I guess a 39 hour finish wasn't in the cards for me, but I still appreciate your "help" in that regard. :)
DeleteAnd perhaps I should clarify that it actually wasn't a religious awakening on Stony Pass, at least, not in any traditional sense. It was kind of comforting, actually, to find that even in the midst of terror, I'm still me. You know? Martin Luther goes off and starts a religious revolution, and I just shrug and know I have to deal with things myself and that's okay. I love these moments though for forcing us to ponder the big questions.
As for coming back ... well, as I said to Olga, I definitely want to crew/pace/volunteer as many years as I can. Run myself? It's going to be a while, but I won't be terribly shocked if one day it sounds like a good idea again. :)
Gretchen, I've read many Hardrock reports, and this is truly THE BEST. I don't say that lightly. Your storytelling, words and pictures manage to capture the enormity of the landscape and challenge. It is so hard to describe the challenge the San Juans pose (and I say this only having experienced about one-third of the course, but having spent a lot of my childhood in Telluride). You show why and how Hardrock really is in a class by itself apart from other ultraruns, and why it earns its nickname "hard walk." It's not ultrarunning as much as a different sport of extreme trekking and survival. The altitude, weather, terrain and elevation profile combine to make it as daunting as you describe. You've given me inspiration to be patient and steady, and to endure, when I attempt a new, big challenge this fall. I'm eager to share your post with my family, too. (My grandfather David S. Lavender was born and raised in Telluride and worked in the Camp Bird Mine during the Depression, which he recounts in his autobiography One Man's West and other books about Southwestern Colorado -- since you've run Camp Bird Road, you might like his descriptions of it back in those days--and few do as good of a job of describing that landscape as he did. I'd say you're in his league with this race report!) Great job, and good luck recovering and resolving your stomach issue. I enjoy crossing paths with you at these crazy events and look forward to seeing you again.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much, Sarah; that really means a lot to me. Thanks again, also, for being up there on Oscar's Pass. That was so nice to see a friend up there!
DeleteI totally agree with you about this being a different sport than ultra running. I was telling someone before the race that this race doesn't actually appeal to the runner in me. I prefer a course where I can do more, uh, ... running! :) But it does appeal to the adventurer in me, and that is huge. From an adventure standpoint, it is incredibly, insanely enticing. And rewarding.
I laughed, I cried, I was inspired. What a humorous and poignant story. Congratulations on an incredible finish. Wow, you're a Hardrocker! But it doesn't make me want to do it. Really. I don't. Catherine
ReplyDeleteThanks! You're funny, Catherine. And as awesome and amazing as this was, I don't feel like I can recommend it to people either. It's definitely not for everyone, and I think each person has to find out what it's about and decide for herself if she's really interested, if this really something that appeals. If you're into it though - it rocks!
DeleteSuch a great race report--funny, warm, great photos...made me feel like I was there. Thanks so much for sharing your Hardrock journey with us!
ReplyDeleteTam
Thanks, Tam! And, you're welcome.
DeleteAwesome race report. We missed your finish, as we didn't get up until Kerry Owens finished about 230 am.
ReplyDeleteI dropped at Grouse Gulch myself. I loved your pics, as I seemed to have lost my chip from the camera.
I learned alot, from never being on the course before, I think having a pacer and crew will help me..get to my HR finish!
Thanks, Kim! Sorry to hear your race ended at Grouse, but yes, every time out there is a big learning experience. There are 100's that I can imagine running with no pacer or crew, but this is definitely not one of them! I learned a lot just from pacing for 30 miles last year. I have no doubt you will be back and get that finish!
DeleteGretchen, you are incredible! You def have some serious gifts from God :o) Oh so many beautiful pix and fantastic descriptions of running the terrain. Your honesty about the frightening experiences is both intimate and awe inspiring. Your crew was stupendous and you indeed have a special world of friends! One question...how in the world does all the aid station stuff get out there? It's got to be too much to pack in??? Amazing about all the volunteers and supportive folks sprinkled along the course. Thanks for this beautiful and inspirational write-up!You ARE a Rockstar! PS: bring it for show n tell to our next family gathering!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Aunt T! Some aid stations are in towns, (like Telluride and Ouray) so that is easy. Some, they pack stuff in with horses, (like at Engineers and Pole Creek), and at Virginius I am pretty sure humans pack it all up there themselves. Just one more reason to be impressed!
DeleteI'm a new ultrarunner and have been following your blog for a while. You're such an inspiration! It's great reading and learning from your race reports. BIG congrats on finishing Hardrock!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much, Megan! I see you just did TRT 50. Awesome! TRT is one of my favorite races, and the 50K was my first ultra ever. I was up at Tunnel Creek volunteering this year.
DeleteKeep up the great running!
Too bad I didn't see you! Would've love to say hi, you're TRT race reports are great. Can't wait to do it again next year.
ReplyDelete*your
ReplyDeleteYour report brought me to tears this morning. Thank you for your honesty and inspiration. Keep on running.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much! :)
DeleteTop notch throughout, Gretchen.
ReplyDeleteIt's not easy to write about the transcendent experiences in life, but you've done really well as usual.
So relieved your stomach cooperated juuuust enough.
Thanks, Stac!
DeleteGretchen
ReplyDeleteSo inspiring to read your story. Brings back memories for a 69 year old who can no longer compete at your level any longer.
Hope to volunteer at Hardrock in the years to come. Volunteer at Imogene every year at the summit for the last 5 years. I
Felt your pain, joy and growth in this story. You will have these memories forever and draw on the experience in the future
Knowing you are not only a competer but a finisher.
Burke
Thank you, Burke. This will definitely be one of those experiences to draw on in the future.
DeleteI hope to be out there volunteering as well. Say hi if you get a chance!
Wow! That was an amazing, riveting report! I really have no basis to truly understand what a race like Hardrock is like but your report brings that understanding a bit closer. Congrats on your finish! Truly inspiring, especially considering the obstacles you faced.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Sarah. It seems like everyone's experience is different, but for me, it was definitely something I couldn't fully understand until I ran it myself. I suspect that is true for most of us. One of the many things that makes it worth doing!
DeleteGreat report Gretchen, I was so happy when I didn't make it in to this years lottery. This one scares the heck out of me! Going for Wasatch in 5 weeks to warm up to the altitude. Congratulations on your finish. I had a friend who decided to quit after getting caught in one of those lightening storms at mile 85!! That is a real bummer. Wat to persevere!!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Jay! I know what you mean about the lottery. I really did not expect to get in, and when I did, I was pretty freaked out. :) Total bummer about your friend, but I can really understand how that happens.
DeleteGood luck at Wasatch! My pacer, Jamie will be out there. It looks like a great race!
Beautiful experience and account, Gretchen. I'm so proud of you, and I'm proud I get to call you my friend.
ReplyDeleteAww, thanks, Meghan! :)
DeleteWonderful write-up - as always. I really enjoy your reports. As someone who's come to running later in life, started half marathons last year, full marathons this year, and looking at some 50-milers for next year, it's great to know the excitement, worry, beauty, and joys of accomplishment keep on. Though, with a course like Hardrock unto it's own, I guess that sort of magnifies the usual experiences of being out on the wonderful trails. I have a question - do you know what pack your friend Darla is wearing in one of the first photos? I love pockets up front & that vest/pack looks like it's has more larger pockets than I've seen.
ReplyDeleteThank you! Definitely the rewards of running and being outdoors continue, and maybe even magnify with the years.
DeleteAs far as Darla's pack, I'm not sure what it is. My guess would be one of the UltrAspire packs. That is a good line to look into anyway, and also Ultimate Direction makes one (not sure if they still make it, but I think so) called the Wink. That one has great up-front pockets.
Hey! GREAT race report! I'm "Eve," AKA Karah AKA Tired Mama Running, Adam's pacer through the storm. It was SO cool to read your perspective on the whole thing, especially that truly epic show that Mother Nature put on. Congratulations on your finish! Hope to see you out there on some trail, somewhere, in the future.
ReplyDeleteEve!!! I mean, uh, Karah. :) Thanks for reading - I love how the internet can connect us to people we shared a crazy experience with but thought we'd never see again. I'm glad you found me!
DeleteThanks also for keeping such a level head in that crazy storm. Honestly, that helped! As challenging as it was, I'm glad (now that it's over of course!) that it was part of my Hardrock experience. Totally epic, and also a good learning experience. I'll never forget the look on Adam's face at the finish line when I said I had a space blanket in my pack but hadn't thought to pull it out. His jaw just dropped. What an idiot I am!
I'm hoping to be out at Hardrock next year (in a support role, only!) so let me know if you'll be there. Would love to say hello when I'm not acting hysterical.
Gretchen!!!! Wow!!! (Where the hell have I been that I missed this when it first came out?)
ReplyDeleteThis is your book, don't you think? It's all here. "Liquid Hardrock." Oh, my freaking lordy lord. You did it! And you brought us all with you. So good.
How is your stomach? Not to get all weird here, but I was having terrible stomach trouble a couple of years ago. I went GF and DF, and after a few months (it wasn't immediate) all was well and continues to be.
Thanks, Pam! You probably missed this because I had some kind of weird trouble with the feed on this one. I tried republishing to no avail.
DeleteMy stomach is way better now. I only feel it if I run really hard and have to breathe hard. Then I can just barely feel it. I think the liquid diet was the key, but I also did gluten free for that time surrounding Hardrock. I cut back on the dairy, but still did keifer and yogurt. I am back to normal with the diet now and all seems to be well. No more Advil for me ever. (Thinking about a post on natural anti-inflammatories. I did turmeric daily during the week before Hardrock, but no clue how much it helped.)
I'm so glad to hear that, Gretchen. The whole thing sounded worrisome. (I had a recent little stomach flare up because I was taking Ibuprofen at night when my shoulder was hurting. Never again.) It's true that we're all an experiment of one.
DeleteAnd congratulations again. This is one to remember forever....
Also, Gretchen, I'd love to hear more about your Hardrock recovery. How do you come back down from something like that? I'd love to run Hardrock some year when I can properly train for it. I might be on the 10 year plan there....but I'm curious how you can return to regular life after experiencing such an otherworldly experience.
ReplyDeleteThe stomach thing actually was pretty worrisome. Who knows if there were other factors besides the ibuprofen, but my stomach was definitely in a bad state.
ReplyDeleteRecovery was actually not bad at all. I had to celebrate the healing of my stomach, really. I was still careful for a while with my food choices, but I was aware that I really needed to put on some weight. Kind of strange, actually. I still had another week off work once I got home, too, and that helped the easing back into "real life." I'm running again, but haven't done any long runs. I find myself choosing routes where I can run fast, and even when there are hills, I run them instead of hike. I'm sick of hiking!!! ;)
Gretchen, we met last month on a TRT training run with Carrie. What a fantastic report! Congrats on such a gutty performance at Hardrock! I smiled the whole way through your write-up...and was so happy to see your finish photo at the end! Great job and thanks for sharing with all of us...hope to get a chance to run with you a little longer next time! :) -Don
ReplyDeleteThank you for the report. I love reading these when I stumble upon them. I laughed and cried. Made me feel like I was there if only for a couple of minutes. I've been caught out in some lightning storms while running/cycling. I still remember them vividly. Scary. I hope to do my first trail mary in 2013. This will be an ultra for me. Thanks for the inspiration!
ReplyDeleteGretchen,
ReplyDeleteWOW!! I have been training for Hardrock (however you do that) since the lottery. My training partner and I both had our names in but knew our chances were pretty slim, we also knew there was probably no way we would both get in. Considering the odds it worked out better than could be expected. Kris got in and I didn't, BUT since he is 60 he is allowed a pacer the entire way...which means we both can do it together!
I keep trying to study the course and learn what I can to try and imagine what we are in for. Your race report has been the best indication so far! You really have a gift for being able to put into words an experience that seems almost incomprehensible. I feel anxious/scared but a little more secure having read your account. Thanks, Carol